Assessing new cosmetic formulations
The way we normally assess a new formulation is to study the recipe and research whether the individual ingredients are safe. It is not necessary to test the finished products and we do not normally require samples.
Here at EF Chemical Consulting we check if there are specific restrictions in the regulations applying to each ingredient, then consider its overall toxicity profile in relation to the intended use. Aspects of toxicity that are commonly relevant to cosmetic products are skin sensitisation and irritation potential, but more serious issues such as the liver toxity and reproductive toxicity of the ingredients also have to be considered. Where information is scant we consider the chemical structure of the ingredient and compare against similar chemicals of known toxicity ("structure-activity relationship"). We pride ourselves on being thorough and each product is assessed individually on its own merits.
All our current safety assessments contain calculations and estimates of exposure (these will become a legal requirement from 2013) and detailed reasons for why each ingredient is considered to be safe.
Information needed from the customer
We appreciate that customers may be reluctant to divulge details about the manufacturing of their product so we try to ask for just the minimum required to complete the assessment. EF Chemical Consulting does not manufacture or sell cosmetics so please be reassured that confidentiality will be totally respected. If required, we are happy to sign a confidentiality agreement. The exact information required for us to complete the assessment depends on the product. As a minimum we require:
- Name and address of the company and contact person
- Product name and code
- What the product is to be used for and what particular group of people it is aimed at
- How the product is to be used (how often, which part of the body, washed-off or left on)
- List of all the ingredients used with their INCI names or, if their is no INCI name, their CAS number
- CI index of any colour used
- Code and manufacturer of any perfume being used
- Percentage by weight of each ingredient
- pH of the product
- An IFRA Certificate from the perfume manufacturer that it complies with the IFRA (international Fragrance Association) regulations, and a list of the concentrations of the 26 allergens that must be declared in the EU. Note that the absence of an IFRA certificate is the most common reason for holding up the assessment process - its the only evidence that the safety assessor can use to decide that a synthetic perfume is safe.
Please email us for a full list of the information we need. We will also send you instructions and a standard template on which to complete the product recipes. Completed safety assessments are sent out as PDF files.
Please call us on 01244-351644 (UK) or email edmund@efchemicalconsulting.co.uk to find out more about cosmetic safety assessments or to discuss pricing.